top of page
Search

Roots vs. Your Property: How to Stop Uplifted Sidewalks, Cracked Walls, and Sewer Line Intrusions

  • Writer: Oliver Owens
    Oliver Owens
  • Sep 28
  • 7 min read

If you’ve ever tripped on a lifted sidewalk square or discovered a weird crack that wasn’t there last summer, odds are roots are involved. In LA and Orange County, we see the same pattern: gorgeous mature shade trees planted decades ago into tiny strips of soil. The canopy looks amazing; the underground space is cramped. Roots do what roots do—they go looking for air, water, and room. When they find seams in sidewalks or tiny gaps in an older sewer lateral, they slide right in.

picture of well-maintained tree beside the sidewalk

Before we get into fixes, a quick myth-buster. Most tree roots don’t plunge deep like a cartoon taproot. They live mostly in the top foot or so of soil and can stretch well beyond the dripline, which is why you’ll see sidewalk panels lifting several feet away from the trunk. Knowing that explains almost every “why is this happening?” call we get. auf.isa-arbor.com+1


The three big pain points (and what they look like)


1) Uplifted sidewalks and trip hazards

You’ll notice panels tilted up, a step between slabs, or cracks running from a tree lawn toward the curb. Small lifts become liability quickly—especially on busy sidewalks, near schools, or along shared driveways. City and county agencies have spent millions dealing with this; the research is clear that shallow, surface-oriented roots + tight soil + hardscape are the usual recipe. US Forest Service+1


2) Cracked walls and hardscape

On private property, we see roots wedged behind a short garden wall, pushing out pavers, or creeping under a thin slab. The culprit isn’t “aggressive” roots so much as available space + moisture in the wrong spot. If there’s a tiny pathway between compacted layers, roots will take it—because it’s the only route that has oxygen.


3) Sewer line intrusions

Roots don’t “bust into” perfect pipes. They follow moisture and slip through existing defects—old joints, tiny cracks, or failed gaskets. Once inside, they love the nutrient flow and expand like a brush. You’ll notice slow drains, gurgling toilets, or a too-green patch in the lawn near the line. Municipal and EPA resources treat root intrusion as one of the biggest maintenance headaches for older systems for good reason. EPA NEPIS+1


A quick story from Brentwood: the “mystery lift” patio


A family in Brentwood had a patio step that kept getting higher every year. No giant roots visible. From the surface, it looked like a slab issue. We air-spaded a small test area and found a network of pencil-thick feeder roots exploiting a compacted layer under the concrete—basically a hardpan shelf. We trimmed judiciously, relieved compaction, shifted irrigation, and added mulch out to the canopy line. Six months later, the movement stopped. The point: it’s not always a single monster root. Sometimes it’s soil conditions telling roots where to travel. US Forest Service


Step one: diagnose before you dig (or cut)

  • Map the conflicts. Where exactly is the lift, crack, or slow drain? Note distances from the trunk and any irrigation lines.

  • Check irrigation schedules. Frequent shallow watering pulls roots upward. Deep, occasional soaks encourage roots to stay spread out and stable. UC ANR has simple, practical guidance for watering schedules and avoiding soil compaction that starves roots of oxygen. UC Agriculture and Natural Resources+1

  • Camera the sewer lateral if you suspect intrusion. A quick inspection tells you if it’s roots, scale, bellies, or a bad joint—no guesswork.


When we visit, we’ll handle the tree side (and stump if needed), advise on barriers/soils, and coordinate with your plumber when sewer lines are involved.


Smart fixes for sidewalks, slabs, and paths

There isn’t one silver bullet, but a few best practices consistently reduce conflicts:


1) Prune roots carefully—only when it’s safe

Yes, root pruning is a thing—but it’s surgical, not wholesale. Cutting too many, cutting too big, or cutting too close to the trunk can destabilize the tree. LA County’s own sidewalk program emphasizes how root size, number, proximity to trunk, species, and age affect risk. Translation: know when to stop. We follow conservative standards and never compromise stability. LA County Public Works


2) Add space or re-route roots with barriers (the right kind)

Modern linear root barriers with vertical ribs can guide shallow roots downward and away from hardscape when installed with replacement slabs or new plantings. Peer-reviewed trials in California showed several barrier types reduce shallow root development near sidewalks—installation matters, and design features (like ribs) help prevent circling roots. Forest Service R&D+1


3) Use smarter soils under hardscape

Where we’re rebuilding a path or patio, we’ll often recommend structural soils or engineered base that spreads load and discourages surface rooting directly under slabs. Forest Service guidance and Western Arborist case studies both highlight how soil design choices reduce future lifting. US Forest Service


4) Adjust irrigation and mulch

Let the area breathe and dry between deep waterings. Add 3–4 inches of mulch (kept off the trunk flare) to moderate temperature and moisture. Over time, this shifts root behavior and helps the whole system—tree and hardscape—coexist. UC IPM underscores how compaction and grade changes harm roots and trigger decline, so we avoid any heavy equipment near the root zone. UC IPM


What about foundations and walls?


Most modern house foundations in our area aren’t shattered by roots pushing like a jack. What we usually see is soil movement (from moisture swings) combined with roots exploiting weak spots—like a dry-stacked garden wall or a thin, unreinforced slab. Our strategy is simple:

  • Relieve pressure with selective root pruning only where safe.

  • Stabilize moisture (gutter downspouts, irrigation tweaks, mulch).

  • Create separation: where we rebuild, we use root barriers or a footing that doesn’t invite roots to sit right against the structure.

  • Monitor during the next two seasons; most issues show themselves in hot/dry cycles or after big winter rains.


Sewer lines: your playbook (tree + plumbing teamwork)

  1. Confirm with a camera. If the line is intact except at a joint, you might buy time with root cutting and localized repair. If the pipe is failing throughout, replacement (or trenchless rehab) is the real fix.

  2. Coordinate timing. We’ll handle root access from the surface safely (tree-side), then your plumber addresses the pipe.

  3. Choose the right long-term fix. Chemical root control products exist, but municipal manuals treat them as maintenance, not cure. A compromised line will invite roots back until the defect is sealed or replaced. EPA NEPIS+1


When removal is the adult decision


We love saving good trees, and most of the time we can. But there are moments when a species planted too close to critical infrastructure will keep costing you—no matter how perfectly we prune. If that’s your situation, we’ll recommend Tree Removal with a plan that protects nearby utilities and hardscape. We’ll follow with Stump Grinding so you’re not fighting resprouts or tripping over a leftover lump.

If you’d rather keep shade in the spot, we’ll help you replant smarter—right species, right distance, right soil prep, with a maintenance plan for the first three years so the new tree thrives without wrecking the walkway.


Prevention beats repair (by a mile)


Here’s what we tell homeowners who are planning projects or renovations:

  • Give roots volume. Even a small bump-out of planting area, or a longer parkway opening, changes root behavior.

  • Plant the right tree for the space. StreetsLA policies even note when linear root barriers may be required with new trees; that’s your hint on narrow sites. We’ll guide you to species and spacing that make sense for your block. streets.lacity.gov

  • Water deep, not daily. It keeps roots from bunching up under the slab. UC Agriculture and Natural Resources

  • Schedule structural pruning every few years. Strong structure above the ground usually mirrors a healthier, more stable root system below. (And no topping—ever.)


Working with the city (sidewalks, parkways, and permits)


If your issue involves a street tree or the parkway, there are rules and exceptions. LA’s sidewalk program documentation notes that, generally, adjacent owners are responsible for sidewalk repair—but there’s a street tree root exception in some cases, and the city has standards for root pruning and retention during repairs. It’s a little bureaucratic, but worth skimming before you file a request; we can help you interpret it. cao.lacity.gov+1


Also worth knowing: public conversations about saving mature street trees during repairs are ongoing in LA, and courts have pushed the city to consider alternatives that preserve canopy where feasible. It’s a good reminder that safer sidewalks and healthy trees can coexist with smart design. AP News


A simple homeowner checklist (save this)

  1. Identify the conflict: sidewalk lift, wall pressure, or plumbing symptoms.

  2. Call us for a site visit: we’ll assess species, soil, irrigation, and risk.

  3. Avoid DIY root cutting near the trunk; it can destabilize the tree. LA County Public Works

  4. Plan the fix: selective root pruning (if safe), barrier installation when rebuilding, smarter soils, and irrigation/mulch changes. Forest Service R&D+1

  5. For sewer lines: camera first, then coordinate tree work with plumbing. Long-term fix means sealing or replacing the defective line. EPA NEPIS

  6. If removal’s required: schedule Tree Removal and Stump Grinding, then replant the right tree in the right place.


Why people loop us in early

  • We protect both: your tree and your hardscape/utility lines.

  • We’ve done this across LA & OC: from West Hollywood and Beverly Hills to Santa Monica and the OC suburbs—different soils, same playbook.

  • We coordinate: with your plumber, contractor, or city inspector so fixes stick.

  • We’re fully licensed and insured: License #1060589.


Book a practical, no-pressure assessment


If your sidewalk has a new bump, if your wall is bowing a little, or if your drains are starting to talk back, let’s take a look before it becomes a bigger repair. We’ll give you clear options:


Free authoritative resources you can reference

  • USDA Forest Service – Reducing Tree Root Damage to Sidewalks (soil/sidewalk conflict basics, California data). US Forest Service

  • USDA Forest Service / Western Arborist – Tree Roots & Sidewalk Damage (barriers, structural soils, design ideas). US Forest Service

  • ISA – Root systems facts (how roots actually grow; most are shallow and wide). auf.isa-arbor.com

  • UC ANR / UC IPM – Protecting trees during landscape & construction, watering/compaction tips. UC IPM+1

  • EPA sewer rehab handbook (why roots exploit defects; why repair/replacement matters). EPA NEPIS

  • StreetsLA Policies & LA Guide (parkway/sidewalk guidelines, root barriers sometimes required; owner/City roles). streets.lacity.gov+1

 
 
 

Comments


bottom of page